Once we have selected a healthy bare root plant at the nursery, using the techniques we learned last week, whether it survives or fails is up to the gardener.
How we handle the plant from the time it leaves the nursery until it is comfortably in its new home in our yard determines how quickly it will begin to establish roots and start growing. This week, we'll examine the process involved in successful planting.
You would probably not believe how many plants are mishandled by gardeners, even experienced ones. I have seen many bare root plants leave nurseries in the open bed of a pickup truck, on a sunny morning, with nothing more than a plastic garbage sack tied around their roots. Then, to compound the tragedy, that same truck will park in front of the grocery store while the owner "runs in for a minute" while the roots dry and fry.
Not good handling.
Instead, go directly home and immediately take care of your plants. If you're able to plant them that same day, put the roots in a bucket of water to re-hydrate them. At this time, cleanly trim off any broken, discolored or damaged areas with sharp pruning shears. Let plants soak for a couple of hours, as long as overnight if you can't plant that day. You don't need to add anything to the water to stimulate root growth. Plain old water is all that is necessary.
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Digging in wet soil requires a technique to prevent glazing on the sides of the planting hole, effectively sealing the walls and preventing water from draining out and roots from penetrating into surrounding soil. One must never pry the soil out of the ground. Do not pull the handle of the spade toward you. Instead, push it away from your body to loosen soil in the hole. Use a separate motion to lift dirt up and out of the ground.
When placing the plant in the hole, be sure that you have first formed a cone of soil to set the roots on that conforms to the shape of the rootball. Spread the roots out carefully and gently. If the hole isn't wide enough (a common occurrence!) remove the plant and dig the hole wider. Don't cram the plant into too narrow a spot. Think of it as putting your feet into shoes that are too narrow. Ouch!
Don't allow the plant to sink below the level at which it grew in the field. You can determine this level by the change in color of the bark on the trunk. If anything, plant a couple of inches higher than it was growing and mound the backfill soil up and over any exposed roots. For trees, plant even higher, all the way up to placing the roots on top of the ground and backfilling over them. Provide staking until the trees anchor into the ground.
Never mix a little soil conditioner in with the backfill dirt and think you're helping the plant survive. To be helpful to the plant, the entire area the roots will occupy when the plant reaches mature size should be conditioned. Be sure to mulch to a 2- to 4-inch depth over the roots to within an inch or two of the trunk. Never allow the mulch material to pile up against the trunk or it may rot from the moisture being held in the mulch.
Water well to eliminate air pockets immediately after planting. Keep most plants well watered the first year. After that, follow specific guidelines for the type of plant you're growing. If you follow these planting guidelines, your success ratio should be almost 100 percent. I guarantee it!
Stan Mapolski, aka The Rogue Gardener, can be heard from 9-11 a.m. Sunday mornings on KMED 1440 AM and seen in periodic gardening segments for KTVL Channel 10 News. Reach him at stanmapolski@yahoo.com.
