Tamales prepared by Tabu chef Jeven Showers offer a twist on tried-and-true recipes. (Mail Tribune / Bob Pennell)Like most chefs, Jeven Showers and Allyson Holt believe they can always improve an old favorite.
And when it comes to tamales, methods of preparation can't get much older, Holt said. The Mexican dish dates to pre-Columbian times and possibly even earlier.
From their ancient status as a ceremonial food, tamales have remained a staple of many holidays and other celebrations. But the specialty — often thought too labor-intensive to make more than a few times each year — likely was born of necessity, according to food experts. The bundles of meat-filled dough provided warriors with portable sustenance that was easily reheated over an open fire. Early tamale fillings included not only chilies, beans, vegetables and nuts, but also frogs and insects.
Creepy-crawlers aside, little-used fillings abound that can transform tamales into Italian, Indian or Asian fare. Owner of Ashland's Latin restaurant Tabu, Showers spices his tamales with Jamaican jerk seasoning, Thai chili paste, turmeric and lemongrass. His take on a sweet tamale may incorporate pumpkin, mascarpone cheese and pinenuts.
"Tamales are fun," Showers said. "You can be creative with 'em."
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Yet winter, Holt says, seems to conjure cravings for tamales with their heat, heartiness and slow-cooked quality.
"They seem to be almost a comfort food."
The ease of freezing and reheating tamales
Creepy-crawlers aside, little-used fillings abound that can transform tamales into Italian, Indian or Asian fare. Owner of Ashland's Latin restaurant Tabu, Showers spices his tamales with Jamaican jerk seasoning, Thai chili paste, turmeric and lemongrass. His take on a sweet tamale may incorporate pumpkin, mascarpone cheese and pinenuts.
"Tamales are fun," Showers said. "You can be creative with 'em."
Showers will showcase his fusion recipes in a Sunday cooking class at Holt's gourmet emporium, Allyson's Kitchen, in Ashland. Tamale classes have proven so popular, Holt said, that Sunday's class filled up two weeks in advance. Another will be planned this spring, she added.
Yet winter, Holt says, seems to conjure cravings for tamales with their heat, heartiness and slow-cooked quality.
"They seem to be almost a comfort food."
The ease of freezing and reheating tamales makes stockpiling them a sensible strategy for last-minute meals, Holt said. While spreading the dough, smearing on filling and wrapping each individual bundle can be a tedious process, a stand mixer cuts the masa's preparation time in half, Holt said. Pre-made masa also can be purchased at some Hispanic markets.
Try the following tamale recipes using "masa harina," a dry corn flour widely available in grocery stores. For more authentic tamales, look for stone-ground masa harina, which has a coarser texture, Holt said.
Reach reporter Sarah Lemon at 776-4487, or e-mail slemon@mailtribune.com.
Blue Corn Tamales with Caramelized Onions, Mushrooms and Goat Cheese
1 cup masa harina
3/4 cup, plus 2 tablespoons blue cornmeal
6 tablespoons vegetable shortening, chilled
11/2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 cup chicken stock, chillled
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 medium yellow onions, sliced
2 pounds mixed fresh mushrooms (button, crimini, portobello), sliced
1 tablespoon minced garlic
2 tablespoons white wine
1 teaspoon fresh thyme, minced
Salt and pepper, to taste
4 ounces goat cheese
Place the masa and blue cornmeal in the bowl of an electric mixer, fitted with a paddle attachment. With the mixer on low speed, add 11/4 cups very hot water in a slow steady stream until the dough forms into a ball. Increase speed to high and continue mixing for 5 minutes. Transfer dough to a clean bowl and refrigerate for one hour. Return the dough to the bowl of the electric mixer and beat on high speed. With the machine running, slowly add the shortening, 2 tablespoons at a time. Continue mixing for about 5 minutes, until the dough is smooth and light. Stop the mixer to scrape sides of the bowl. Reduce the speed to low and continue to beat. While dough is mixing, combine the salt, baking powder and chicken stock in a small bowl. Add the stock mixture to the masa in a slow, steady stream and continue mixing until thoroughly combined. Increase speed to high and mix for 5 minutes longer.
Heat a large skillet or sauté pan until hot. Add the olive oil and heat thoroughly. Add the onions and sauté until golden, about 8 minutes. Add the mushrooms and cook until mushrooms lose most of their moisture. Add the garlic and sauté for about a minute more. Add the wine and fresh thyme; sauté until the wine has cooked off. Remove pan from heat and allow to cool. Assemble tamales, topping filling with a small amount of goat cheese; wrap and steam.
Makes 12 medium-large tamales.
Recipe courtesy of Jeven Showers and Allyson Holt.
Pumpkin Masa Tamales with Mascarpone
13/4 cups masa harina
5 tablespoons shortening
5 tablespoons canned pumpkin
1/2 teaspoon salt
11/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 cup apple sauce
1 (8-ounce) package mascarpone cheese
1 cup pine nuts, toasted
1/2 teaspoon fresh-grated nutmeg
1 teaspoon sugar
1 bunch sage, chopped
8 tablespoons unsalted butter
Crushed Italian cookies, for garnish
Place the masa harina in mixer bowl fitted with paddle attachment. With machine on low speed, add 11/4 cups hot water in a slow, steady stream until the dough forms a ball. Continue mixing at medium speed for 5 minutes, then transfer dough to clean bowl. Refrigerate for 1 hour.
Return masa to mixer bowl and beat for 5 minutes on high speed. With the machine running, slowly add the shortening and pumpkin puree, 2 tablespoons at a time. Continue mixing for about 5 minutes, until the dough is smooth and light. Scrape sides of bowl as necessary. Reduce speed to low and continue to beat.
While the dough is mixing, combine the salt, baking powder, cinnamon and apple sauce in a small mixing bowl. Slowly add the mixture to the masa in a steady stream and continue mixing until thoroughly combined. Increase speed to high and mix for 5 minutes longer.
Fold the mascarpone, toasted pine nuts, nutmeg and sugar together. Add 1 teaspoon of the chopped sage and fold in. Assemble tamales, wrap and steam.
To make brown butter sauce, brown the butter slowly, over medium-low heat. Butter will become a bit foamy. Strain and reheat with chopped sage. Serve on top of steamed tamales with cookies, for garnish.
Makes 12 medium-large tamales.
Recipe courtesy of Jeven Showers and Allyson Holt.
Duck Tamales
11/2 cups masa harina
1 teaspoon dried, ground chipotle powder
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/4 cup vegetable shortening, at room temperature
1 cup fresh corn kernels
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground coriander
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
4 duck breasts, fat scored
3 tablespoons chipotle chili purée
1/4 cup roasted red pepper, peeled, seeded and diced
1/2 cup cotija cheese, crumbled
Place the masa harina, chipotle powder, salt and baking powder in a mixer bowl fitted with a paddle attachment. Add the butter and shortening; beat together for 3 minutes, until thoroughly mixed. Add 1 cup warm water and beat for 2 minutes longer, scraping down sides of bowl as necessary. Add the corn kernels and beat for about 1 minute longer, until incorporated.
Take masa dough out of bowl, wrap in plastic wrap and let rest for 30 minutes at room temperature.
Mix together the spices, salt and pepper. Coat the duck breasts on both sides and allow to marinate in the dry rub for about 30 minutes. Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat until hot. Place the duck breasts, skin side down in a skillet. Allow to cook until fat turns golden brown, about 4 minutes. Flip the duck breasts and cook for approximately 4 minutes more.
Remove pan from heat and allow the duck to cool. When cool enough to handle, cut duck into long, thin strips. Heat a dry nonstick sauté pan or skillet and add the duck meat, chipotle puree and red bell pepper.
Assemble tamales, topping the duck with a little cotija cheese; wrap and steam.
Makes 12 medium-large tamales.
Recipe courtesy of Jeven Showers and Allyson Holt.
Jamaican Jerk Shrimp Tamales
11/2 cups masa harina
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup olive oil
1/2 large, roasted red bell pepper, seeded and pureed (about 1/2 cup)
2 pounds medium shrimp peeled and de-veined
Jerk Spice Marinade (recipe follows)
2 tablespoons canola oil
Place the masa harina and salt in electric mixer bowl fitted with paddle attachment. Add the olive oil and beat together for 3 minutes, until thoroughly incorporated. Add 1 cup warm water and the bell-pepper purée and beat for 2 minutes longer, scraping down sides of bowl as necessary. Take masa dough out of bowl, wrap in plastic wrap, and let rest for 30 minutes at room temperature so the dough can thoroughly absorb the moist ingredients.
Rinse the shrimp and pat dry. Coat the shrimp in the marinade and allow to rest for approximately 30 minutes.
Drizzle the oil over the shrimp and grill or sauté until the shrimp just begin to turn pink, about 2 minutes per side. Remove the shrimp from heat and allow to cool. When cool enough to handle, chop the shrimp into bite-sizes pieces. Assemble tamales, wrap and steam.
Makes 12 medium-large tamales.
JERK-SPICE MARINADE: In a blender or food processor, combine 3 tablespoon minced garlic, 3 diced green onions, 1 tablespoon lime juice, 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper, 1 teaspoon ground allspice, 1 teaspoon ground ginger, 1 teaspoon ground nutmeg, 1 teaspoon dried thyme, 2 tablespoons brown sugar and 11/2 cups soy sauce.
Recipe courtesy of Jeven Showers and Allyson Holt.
Thai Red Curry Tamales with Lemongrass Beef
3 stalks lemongrass, outer leaves peeled and discarded
13/4 cup masa harina
10 tablespoons vegetable shortening, chilled
11/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 cup chicken stock, chilled
2 tablespoons Thai red curry paste
2 stalks Lemongrass, white parts only, pounded and chopped
3-inch piece of ginger, peeled and roughly chopped
5 cloves garlic
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1/2 cup cilantro
1/2 cup mint
1/2 cup basil
1/2 cup, plus 2 tablespoons peanut or canola oil
2 pounds skirt or flank steak, cleaned and thinly sliced
1 lime, juiced
Bruise the lemongrass stalks with the back of a knife, mince and then combine in a small saucepan with 11/4 cups water. Bring water and lemongrass to a boil over high heat. Turn off heat, cover pan and allow lemongrass to infuse for 15 minutes. Strain the water into a clean saucepan, making sure you have 11/4 cups liquid, adding more water if necessary. Bring to a boil, then remove from the heat and set aside.
Place the masa in the bowl of an electric mixer, fitted with a paddle attachment. With the mixer on low speed, add the infused water in a slow, steady stream until the dough forms into a ball. Increase speed to high and continue mixing for 5 minutes. Transfer dough to a clean bowl and refrigerate for one hour.
Return the dough to the bowl of the electric mixer and beat on high speed. With the machine running, slowly add the shortening, 2 tablespoons at a time. Continue mixing for about 5 minutes, until the dough is smooth and light. Stop the mixer to scrape sides of the bowl. Reduce the speed to low and continue to beat.
While dough is mixing, combine the salt, baking powder and chicken stock in a small bowl. Add the stock mixture to the masa in a slow, steady stream and continue mixing until thoroughly combined. Add the red curry paste and continue mixing until thoroughly combined. Increase speed to high and mix for 5 minutes longer.
In bowl of a food processor, combine the lemongrass, ginger, garlic and coriander. Pulse until well-chopped. Add the cilantro, mint and basil; pulse until combined. Turn on the processor and add the oil in a slow, steady stream until mixture resembles a pesto.
Coat the steak with lemongrass mixture and allow to marinate for 30 minutes. Heat a large heavy-bottomed skillet or grill pan until hot. Grill or sauté the steak until browned on both sides. Drizzle steak with the lime juice. Remove pan from heat and allow to cool.
Assemble tamales, wrap and steam.
Makes 12 medium-large tamales.
Recipe courtesy of Jeven Showers and Allyson Holt.
