July 7, 2004
A Fresh Approach
Blueberry treats go along with summer
Whether you eat them plump and juicy right off the bush, crisp and refreshing from the freezer or warm and gooey in pancakes — Oregon blueberries are hard to beat.
They have a subtle yet tantalizing flavor all their own. And if you look at them just right, these plump and purple berries make you want to laugh.
But their versatility is no joke. Blueberries are a summertime treat that will be appreciated in just about any dessert concoction you prepare, from blueberry muffins to blueberry parfaits. The
trick is to play up their beautiful deep, rich color and subtle flavor. The culinary palette for blueberries should be light-toned and delicately seasoned.
One of the best companions to blueberries, naturally, is cream. Ice cream is terrific, too. Vanilla ice cream in particular, swirled generously with blueberries, is sheer heaven.
For a slightly more complex celebration of blueberry season, try my Blueberry Ice Cream Sandwiches. The filling is a delectable mixture of vanilla ice cream, fresh blueberries and chewy chunks of
chocolate wafer cookies. You can whip them up on a moment’s notice, anytime the mood strikes, providing the ingredients are on hand. Pack this delight between two giant chocolate-chip
cookies, and you’ve got a real kid-pleasing treat. Of course, the Roberts-Dominguez test kitchen has found the filling to be just as acceptable sans chocolate-chip cookies; just dish it out
and give everyone a spoon.
As for those special occasions when only a flambe will do (now that I’ve made you think of it!), consider Blueberries Jubilee. A spinoff from the classic Cherries Jubilee, this dessert is
appropriate to the region and season. After cooking down a batch of fresh blueberries, sugar and lemon juice to a rich sauce, toss in some more blueberries and cook them briefly — just until
they plump. Swizzle on some warmed brandy, ignite, and voilá — a rich and steamy sauce that you ladle over fabulous-quality vanilla ice cream — before the flames are even extinguished
if you work fast enough.
BLUEBERRY FACTS:
Color is the best indicator of blueberry maturity and fully developed flavor. Blueberries should be deep purple-blue to blue black, with a naturally powdery bloom or fine snowy white dust on
the surface. Avoid green immature berries.
Size is not an indicator of maturity or flavor. Size varies according to the variety from ¼ to -inch diameter. More than 50 varieties of blueberries exist in Oregon, each one
possessing unique characteristics of size, flavor and harvest time.
Shelf life for blueberries is longer than for other berries — generally 10 days to two weeks from harvest. For storage, arrange unwashed blueberries in a shallow container and cover.
Wash just prior to use.
To freeze fresh blueberries, simply wash and dry thoroughly, then pack into freezer containers or bags and freeze.
Frozen blueberries should be thawed in the refrigerator (instead of at room temperature) for best quality.
Jan Roberts-Dominguez is a cookbook author and columnist in Corvallis. Reach her by e-mail at janrd@proaxis.com.
Blueberry-Lemon Squares
2¼ cup flour
½ cup powdered sugar
1 cup (2 cubes) butter, cut into small pieces
4 large eggs
1 cup granulated sugar
½ teaspoon baking powder
1/3 cup fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon grated lemon peel
2 cups fresh blueberries
Mix together flour with the powdered sugar. Cut in the chunks of butter, working them into the flour with a fork or fingers until the dough holds together when pressed. Press the mixture evenly
over the bottom of a 9-by-13-inch baking pan. Bake in a 350-degree oven until the crust is golden, about 20 to 25 minutes.
While the crust is baking, whisk together the eggs with the granulated sugar and baking powder (the baking powder will mix better if you stir it into the sugar before adding the sugar to the
eggs). Whisk in the lemon juice and lemon peel, then stir in the blueberries.
Pour the egg mixture over the browned crust. Return to the oven and bake until the filling is just firm and does not move when the pan is gently nudged, about 25 minutes. Remove from oven and
sprinkle the top with a light dusting of powdered sugar. Serve slightly cooled or cool.
NOTE: This recipe won Lorey French of Forest Grove second place in the 2003 Great Oregon Blueberry Recipe contest.
Blueberry Ice Cream Sandwiches
Half gallon vanilla ice cream
2/3 package of chocolate wafers
2 cups blueberries
Large chocolate chip cookies (or any size or style of cookie you prefer)
Place the ice cream in a large bowl; cut into chunks and soften. Break the chocolate wafers into small chunks and stir into the softened ice cream. Add the blueberries and blend well.
If the mixture isn’t too soft, spread some of it onto a chocolate chip cookie, top with another and place in the freezer. Repeat with remaining ice cream mixture. However, if the ice cream
mixture is too goopy, place it in the freezer for a while to make it easier to spread. If the cookies aren’t going to be eaten in a few hours, wrap them in plastic wrap and return to
freezer.
Blueberries Jubilee
4 cups blueberries
½ cup granulated sugar
1 tablespoon lemon juice
¼ cup water
¼ cup brandy
Fine quality vanilla ice cream
Place 2 cups of the blueberries in a pot with the sugar, lemon juice and water. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for 15 minutes, or until the berries have popped and merged into a
sauce. (NOTE: You can prepare the sauce to this point ahead of time, then continue with recipe when you’re ready to serve.)
When ready to serve, add the remaining 2 cups of blueberries and simmer just until the berries heat and plump (this will only take a few minutes. Have bowls of ice cream ready. Add warmed brandy
to the sauce, turn off the lights, and ignite the surface of the sauce (using a long match or long-handled butane lighter). Stir the sauce to incorporate the brandy and ladle some of the sauce
over each serving. Makes 6 generous servings.
